SNOKELING GUIDE
By vaotolodge.com webmaster Terry Skaggs
last updated March 2008

This guide has been prepared using my experiences as a visitor to Ofu Island. In January of 2008 I completed my fourteenth journey to Ofu and my experiences over these many trips are what I base this guide upon. Also, I’m a PADI certified scuba diver who’s had the rare and tremendous fortune to have gone scuba diving at Ofu.

Between 1999 and 2008 I've visited Ofu during the months of January, April, May, June, November, and December and Ofu has never failed to show me something amazing and new in its underwater world.

My rating system of 1 to 5 is fairly simple and totally subjective. A 5 is perfect, a 1 is bad times!

::: click on this map's dive locations for region descriptions :::

VAOTO LODGE AREA

Vaoto Lodge's beach is generally the first stop our guests make. The lodge has put up some simple shelters, chairs, and a hammock so you can lounge, read, and soak up the silence. The snorkeling here, however, is not great, in my opinion. There are only a few deep areas (even at high tide) and, though fish abound, the reef seems to be more worn here than elsewhere. These conditions vary slightly to the west (Runway Beach) and east.

ACCESSIBILITY – 5
Located directly in front of Vaoto Lodge this nicely sloped sandy beach is usually the first stop for new guest at the lodge. Soft white sand, small shelters, and even a hammock make Vaoto Beach a great spot to chill out and read.
VISIBILITY – 3
Under water tends to be somewhat murky and silty than seen elsewhere on Ofu. Low tide on a calm day may yield the best (if not shallow) results.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 2
A few well-worn coral heads and very little else.
WILDLIFE – 4
You’ll always find a colorful sprinkling of smaller reef fish.
OVERALL – 4
Always a nice, relaxing swim, and an easy diversion if you don’t feel like walking to a better location where a cool drink may not be a few footsteps away!
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
None come to mind. This is a very calm and quiet section of the encircling lagoon. Typically, there is a slight current, but it seldom amounts to much during normal conditions.

I do highly recommend the swim to the National Park. Try to chose a near-peak high tide (to help mitigate the shallows) and swim east from Vaoto Beach past the the rocky beach which follows, and finally into the National Park.

SWIM TO THE NATIONAL PARK

ACCESSIBILITY – 5
Enter on the eastern end of Vaoto Beach (just before the rocks), swim out and work your way east. Your exit will be about ¾ of a mile away where you see the rocks come to an end and the beach open up all the way to below Sunuitao Peak at the far end of Ofu. You’ll be about 16 telephone poles from the lodge when you exit the beach to the road. Bookmark this spot as a great entrance to South Ofu Beach when you come back another day.
VISIBILITY – 4
Vis tends to get a bit thick around the rocks, but the wildlife makes up for it.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 4
Lots of rocks and coral to check out.
WILDLIFE – 4
Plenty of critters swimming around. Be sure to investigate around the bases of the rocks and large corals for urchins, octopi, starfish, etc. More animals are present themselves the further along you go. The rocky beach between the lodge and the National Park means people seldom visit these waters and therefore more wildlife is found here.
OVERALL – 3
A nice long swim which also gets you into the National Park (and it beats walking on a hot day!). The rocky beach along the way is difficult to navigate via land due to steep and rocky terrain and helps to keep this area pristine.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
You’ll find some strong currents early in the dive, especially around the larger rocks and shallower areas. Diving at or just before high tide will reduce this factor. Some areas are very shallow, use caution and don’t damage yourself or the reef.

HURRICANE HOUSE & THE NATIONAL PARK

This is the spot everyone will tell you about! Few places in the world compare to the beauty you'll find here. For me, it has become a ritual to visit this spot at least once a day. After breakfast you'll find me, fins in hand, with the dogs strolling down the road to Hurricane House. Often I'll start my day here, and then hike elsewhere, only to return for a quick swim in the afternoon to cool off before dinner. I love to dive down and hold still on the bottom as the fish move in for a closer look. Another favorite activity is to go out during a rainstorm to feel the cold rain on my back and then dive down into the warm silence and hang with the fish. A rainy day does not spoil this place for me!

ACCESSIBILITY – 5
Hurricane House is a gray structure on the left side of the road as you walk eastward from the lodge. It is twenty-four telephone poles from Vaoto and the only building you’ll pass along the way, and looks like this. I prefer to walk sixteen poles and enter the beach at that point, walking the remainder on the sand instead of the road. Your water entrance is basically anywhere from an area of broad, flat beach stone near the sixteenth pole entrance to a point of land a quarter mile east of the large rock at To'aga. This rock cannot be missed, it's the biggest thing on the beach and climbing it will reveal a USGS marker pointed directly at the peak of Piumafua on Olosega (where I'm told a companion marker sits).
VISIBILITY – 5
I’ve been there on days when it’s as clear as bottled water! Even a bad vis day at Hurricane House beats a good day just about anywhere else.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 5
You’ll have to see it to believe not just the quantity but the overwhelming variety of corals and attendant life forms you’ll find here.
WILDLIFE – 5
Same as above. Reef fish of all sizes, octopus, eels, starfish, clams and other shell-dwellers, and even the occasional shy black tip reef shark.
OVERALL – 5
This location, in my experience, offers the best, most relaxing snorkeling experience one is likely to find. I lose myself for hours . . .
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
Other than keeping an eye out for avas (channels leading out to sea through the reef), there are none that I can think of.

EASTERN NATIONAL PARK

To the east of Hurricane House is a sharp point of land which leads to a long crescent of beach all the way to Sunuitao Peak at the far eastern extreme of Ofu. Across the road, an ancient (now abandoned and overgrown) village called To'aga once stood. Like Hurricane House, this area also offers great vis and wildlife, but not the depth and ease of swimming offered to the west.

ACCESSIBILITY – 4
In the same general area as Hurricane House, but about ¾ of a mile east.
VISIBILITY – 4
Usually the same as Hurricane House. Can occasionally be somewhat turbid during stormy weather or very high tides.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 5
Same as Hurricane House.
WILDLIFE – 5
Ditto.
OVERALL – 4
Almost as nice as Hurricane House but with fewer large coral heads. The shallow parts make it difficult at times, better results can be found just after high tide.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
A black tip reef shark is said to call this area home, but like all of the black tips I've encountered around Ofu it tends to shy away from people when spotted. There is also an ava nearby which, if you’re not paying attention, could present a hazardous current during certain tidal situations.

WHERE TWO ISLANDS MEET

These three spots offer up more challenging options for Ofu visitors, as well as variety. None will offer the levels of wildlife and corals found on the south beaches of Ofu, but these places have charms and challenges all their own.

BRIDGE AVA

ACCESSIBILITY – 4
Enter on the spit of sand immediately off the Sili road by the bridge, or hold onto your mask and jump from the bridge!
VISIBILITY – 5
Great vis.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 2
Not much to see unfortunately, but a fun and relaxing spot, especially at low tide.
WILDLIFE – 3
The usual reef fish, starfish, crustaceans, and shellfish are always around. Not in abundance like on the south side of Ofu, but still . . .
OVERALL – 3
Nice depth under the bridge, and the nearby shallow sand spit makes a cool place to chill out.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
Very dangerous currents in the ava under the bridge, particularly during changing tides. Be aware of where you are at all times. If you elect to jump from the bridge, do so at your own peril and at or near high tide, and scout for a deep spot without too many rocks.

THE SILI HOLE

This spot is for advanced swimmers only. To call this spot a hole is a bit inaccurate because there simply is no reef for a hole to be in. The entrance is hazardous with large, slippy rocks, leading almost immediately to very deep water. The waves can be large here at times and the currents strong. On a calmer day, however, this spot offers a great chance to swim in some deep water, free dive to 40+ feet, and see some big fish.

ACCESSIBILITY – 4
Cross the bridge to Olosega and take the left fork in the road to Sili Village. Make your entrance at the second area where the road washes out. Bring reef shoes as large coral rubble dominates this area and barefoot walking or sandals will make the going awkward.
VISIBILITY – 4
Cloudy near shore, a bit better further out.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 4
No coral but plenty of large rocks for things to live nearby. Nice depth, with free dives down to 40+ feet possible within easy reach (depending on conditions!) of the shore.
WILDLIFE – 4
Lots of fish, particularly larger varieties.
OVERALL – 4
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
There is no reef here, so you are almost immediately in rather deep water and the surf can be turbulent. Watch for strong currents and make sure you can reach a suitable exit if necessary. Although I’ve never seen them, I’ve been told that larger sharks have been spotted here and it is very possible seeing as the location is essentially the open ocean. I’d recommend this location to experienced and strong swimmers only, and don’t go out alone!

OLOSEGA AVA

This spot can be fun or a nightmare. If the tides aren't too strong, give it a shot, but if the tides are extreme and you wish to live a bit longer, why not have a drink at the lodge instead and toast what might have been!

ACCESSIBILITY – 5
Super-easy access. Walk/drive/hitch to Olosega Village. Your beach entrance is the first spot where a truck could easily park next to the small slope to the beach without blocking the road. The 'ava should be apparent -- it's the spot where the waves aren't breaking!
VISIBILITY – 3
Like most swims near populated areas, the vis is not so great. It does open up a bit, however, once you get beyond the reef.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 4
Giant rocks and deep water! Nice. It'd be great with SCUBA gear . . .
WILDLIFE – 4
A good selection of larger species, and the usual host of reef fish.
OVERALL – 4
A fun swim on a good day, and the easiest way I've found to get outside the reef.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
It should be obvious that any swimming near an 'ava or beyond the safe confines of the reef is inherently dangerous, and this location is no exception. Check your conditions, chose your tide wisely and don't go out if you're unsure. Bringing a buddy might be a smart choice and make sure someone knows what your plans are.

OFU'S NORTH SIDE

The north face of Ofu is wild and mostly unpopulated. For the sake of this guide, I'll break it into three areas: Asaga Beach, Mafafa Beach, and Tuafanua Beach. Locally, only Asaga is a commonly used name, the others come from old maps of the islands. Asaga is a beach stretching from the small store and homes near the bridge to where the road turns to go between the mountains. After that there are a series of beaches and rocky areas which eventually end at the impassable rocks at Sinapoto Point.

All of these areas are generally shallow and somewhat silty, though the vis tends to get better the further out one ventures.

ASAGA BEACH

ACCESSIBILITY – 4
Directly across the road in front of Asaga Inn and the store next door.
VISIBILITY – 3
Water is very cloudy, particularly near shore.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 3
It’s an OK spot, kind of shallow and not decorated with the varieties of coral found off the south side of the island.
WILDLIFE – 3
OVERALL – 3
I swam here once many years ago and haven’t felt compelled to return. The beach which had been nicely improved by the Asaga Inn fared poorly during Cyclone Heta in January of 2004. The sand is mostly gone, replaced by stones and coral rubble, and the lovely beach fales they’d built were taken by the storm as well.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
A fairly safe location, but can be turbulent at times.

MAFAFA AND TUAFANUA

Many years ago I camped at the area called Mafafa. You should try it . . .

ACCESSIBILITY – 3
Exit the road on the north side of the island as soon as the embankment is low enough to allow you to climb to the beach. Walk west. There will be a rock squeeze to get through followed by a rocky beach (wear reef shoes!) ending in another tight spot. After this you'll find yourself on a nice, sandy beach -- this is Mafafa. Tuafanua is the next (somewhat rockier) beach to the west. Both of these locations have similar swimming conditions.
VISIBILITY – 3
Can be very turbid, especially at high tide and close to shore. Opens up as you work further out to reveal reef caverns and other formations.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 4
As with most of the north-side beaches this location is definitely for more competent swimmers and snorkelers, but rewards you with exhilarating glimpses into reef caverns below you that hide some great wildlife and an occasional black tip reef shark.
WILDLIFE – 4
Nice array of fish here, if you can see ‘em! The occasional sea turtle has been known to lay eggs on this beach.
OVERALL – 4
I swam here in May of 2003, so my experience is limited. I’m not sure how the beach survived Cyclone Heta. If anyone has an update I’d appreciate it. This is a very wild and undisturbed location. Thanks to "Tama" for some updates on this site.
-->> UPDATE JANUARY 2005 - I returned to Tuafanua and found the area survived Heta well, and the conditions were about the same. Neither are great locations, but they are a very nice hike and offer some beautiful and very secluded stretches of beach.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
For competent swimmers. About 60-100 feet out the reef drops off dramatically. Watch for large swells and local spear fishermen. Beware of a particularly nasty 'ava in Tuafanua vicinity. A wrecked alia (small boat) is high on the rocks almost directly out from this ava (Jan '05). This would be a very bad place to get pulled out to sea!

In January of 2008 I hiked to the north side via Ofu village. The hike is fun and challenging with tons of dramatic rock formations to negotiate and a handful of rough beaches, but the swimming isn't great. Very rough, very shallow, and low visibility. The hike ends at an impassable deadfall and violent pool beyond which you can see the north shore beaches mentioned above.

IN OFU VILLAGE

Going west a mile from Vaoto Lodge you'll find Ofu Village, home of some of the friendliest people you'll ever meet. The loveliness of the people is only surpassed by the curtain of green behind the village and the beauty of the collection of small offshore islands and rocks in front of it. Shallow swimming holes abound (usually filled with kids), and alias bob lazily in the pools. Older boys play kirikiti on the pitch near the old dispensary, and you may be lucky enough to catch the church choir practicing. The village ends at the harbor and the power station.

SWIM TO NU'UTELE

ACCESSIBILITY – 4
Enter the beach and water at the bend in the road directly in front of the post office. Your goal is a small, coral-strewn beach on Nu’utele Island directly in front of you.
VISIBILITY – 4
Cloudy near the shores (especially on the Ofu side), nice in the channel.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 3
Some small fish and stars can be found. The beach on Nu’utele is a bit dull but serves the purpose of making you feel like you have been stranded on your own private island!
WILDLIFE – 3
OVERALL – 3
An interesting swim. Someday I intend to get over to Nu’utele and explore the hiking possibilities. I’m sure the sheer cliffs and crashing waves on the western side of the islet beg a cautionary statement.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
Very shallow at times. I recommend swimming at high tide. You are in direct line with the harbor ava so always watch the current. Do not try to swim to anywhere but the lone beach on the eastern face of Nu’utele!

THE HARBOR

ACCESSIBILITY – 3
The harbor is located at the extreme north end of Ofu Village
VISIBILITY – 4
Can be cloudy, but usually not too bad.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 0
A desert broken only by marine trash. The harbor was dredged in 2008.
WILDLIFE – 2
Some fish, including larger ones brought in through the ava, can be found.
OVERALL – 1
A boring swim in my opinion.
-->> UPDATE JANUARY 2005 - I'm not so down on this location as before. On a clearer day than my previous report, I dove in off the wharf and immediately saw a huge stingray below me. As you swim towards Nu'utele, the water becomes very shallow, but the fish are ever-present company.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
Beware of underwater entanglements, incoming/outgoing vessels, slippery entrance points, the current and larger swells coming in from the open sea. This is a working harbor designed for boats -- not swimmers.

BEYOND MAGA POINT

OK. to be honest, I was only here once back in 2001. Since then I've either been thwarted by overgrown trails or laziness to make the hike out here a second time! I do, however, remember a gorgeous beach and a gnarly tangle of rocks and surf that I'd love to explore again.

ACCESSIBILITY – 2
One hell of a difficult hike first over a coral rubble beach and then a rough trail along the mountainside. Sometimes finding the trail is difficult, keep your eyes open for any kind of path leading through the overgrowth to your left. Depending on recent weather and island activity, this trail may be invisible or impassable. Inquire in Olosega Village as to the trail’s condition before making the effort. I’ve heard it is possible to walk the beach all the way to and around Maga Point but have not tested this path.
VISIBILITY – 3
The rougher the surf the worse the vis.
UNDERWATER ATTRACTIONS – 3
Some corals and large rocks.
WILDLIFE – 4
Good fish varieties, especially larger ones owing to its remoteness and accessibility to the wide channel between Olosega and Ta’u. Above the surface, large birds nest on nearby Maga Point and circle overhead like Pterodactyls -- making this location seem even more primeval and undisturbed.
OVERALL – 3
A tough walk to a very, very remote location. If nothing else, bring a lunch and enjoy the scenery getting to this spot. The view of Ta'u Island is particularly noteworthy.
HAZARDS/CAUTIONS
Not much reef, so beware of large waves and shallow spots. Do not miss the turn in the trail down to the beach, it is steep and often muddy and slippy. If you miss the turn you will immediately begin heading up Piumafua Mountain – and better hikers than you have been lost for days up there!

 

In addition to basic snorkeling equipment (mask, fins, snorkel) I recommend a pair of reef walkers, dive gloves (especially for shallow areas -- you’ll appreciate the protection), and an underwater camera. For areas requiring hiking to get to, especially areas which will have you traversing rubble and rock beaches, wear a pair of hiking boots or sturdy shoes. When going to a remote location (like Oge, any of the north Ofu beaches, Sili, or Nu’utele) make sure someone knows where you’re off to and when you plan on returning. Carry drinking water, that Samoan sun is hot!

It seems obvious to say, but I'd be remiss if I didn't ask all who swim in Ofu's waters to please be responsible. Do not walk on the reef formations and don't break off corals. Be aware of where your fins are as you swim, and avoid touching living coral. The unparalleled beauty of the island's reef is directly tied to its fragility.

Respect the reef and the creatures who call it home. You are their guest.

For more information and 'hard science' on the Ofu reef system, please click these banners:

This guide is a work in progress. If you have questions, additions, or corrections, please email me. Also, I’m not up to speed on species names, so if you can help with these drop me a line.